One of the most difficult problems in tying classic Atlantic salmon flies is the tying on of the main wing, especially in the larger sizes 6/0 to 10/0. Here are two descriptions that are used extensively today. Some have mixed success with one or the other.

Hold the wing with the left hand over the tying-in-spot. Bring the thread up between your thumb and near side of the wing. Take it over the wing leaving a loop above. Bring the thread down between the far side wing and forefinger. At this point you can draw the thread down brining the wing down on the top of the hook. Or, you can continue to take the thread under the bottom of the hook and up between the thumb and wing and tighten. With an upward pull. The latter being the better of the two techniques. The principles of these methods being sound for flies 510 and under. They have a tendency to disarrange larger wings. Also, you would break the thread even 310. When the thread is rotating in one direction it will draw the win over causing it to tilt; if not immediately, at a later date. You will see this happening in framed flies. The wing will always tilt away from the tyer. We have to go back to the land that bred the Guady Salmon Fly now know as the Classic. On the Shannon they used to attch a button to the side of a table. Remember there were no vises and the flies were held in the hand. They would take a few turns of thread around the bottom and bring it up over the wing and reattach it to the button. They would then lift the hook upwards which in turn would set the wing on top of the hook. They would secure the wing with the independent tying thread which was held in catch. The Wing Setter was born form this idea. The technique in Kelson's Book "The Salmon Fly," Page was devised by Francis Gribble. Gribble explained in his notes to Kelson, by drawing the tying silk with equal tension on either side and taking care that the same amount of material were on each side of the wing. The fold that is caused resulting in the wing splitting may be avoided. Of the two older techniques the button method is the best. I have tried both techniques. You would need rubber fingers with Gribble's method.

In Figure 1, you will see a weigh (7 to 8 oz.) made of metal. I would use this weight for hook sizes 6/0 to 10/0. Protruding from the weight is some ridged tapered wire (piano wire) which is held in position with a screw. At this moment your thread and bobbin are hanging plumb after tying on the last piece of material. There should be about an 1/8 of an inch left between the thread and the out eye. Now tilt the hook upwards, say about 25% and relock your vise. You will find by angling the hook in this manner it will prevent the Wing Setter from slipping off the wing butts when you release your hand to wind the thread.

I recommend the following technique in mounting the wing of all sizes of flies. Position your wing over the tying-in spot. The tying-in spot is where the last turn of thread was wound tight against the last piece of material. Holding the wing in your right hand position it for length which is just inside the tip of the tail. Now grasp the wing and the upper half of the hook with your left hand. Your finger tips should be directly over the tying thread. With your right hand start bringing the wing down to the tying-in spot. This is done by releasing the finger tips slightly but still keeping a firm hold with the left fingers. This creates that desirable hump which is so admired. The wing should be about 2/3 down to the tying-in spot. Now slip the Wing Setter over the butt ends and up to the finger tips. Squeeze the wire against the hook sides and then pull down. Do not pull down until you have come in contact with the side of the hook. This prevents the lower fibers from being pulled down too far nd separating. Tie in the wing with 5 or 6 turns. Three turns headward and return with three to the base of the wing. Before cutting the butts apply a couple of beads of water to the tying-in area and leave for a few minutes. Grasp the wing and hook and unwind the last 3 or 4 turns of thread and take an upward pull. This will further bind the wing to the hook. Secure and finish with 3 or 4 turns of threads.

You can also try the following method. Position the wing with the right hand. Grasp as before with the left hand but with the finger tips positioned closer to the eye and beyond the tying-in thread. Slip the wing setter over the butt ends and between the finger tips of the left hand. At the same time take the butts in the idle hand which will control them. As you let the Wing Setter slide through the finger tips, bring the wing down on the hook. Repeat as above to secure wing.

Mallard can be a problem at times. Hump the mallard to the shape of the main wing. Position the mallard strip over the wing and use Method #1. Do not squeeze the wire against the sides of the hook but evenly bring down the Wing Setter. Secure with 3 turns of thread. If you don't succeed at first, practice will help you master the above techniques. Also, if you succeed, please pass the information on so others can enjoy tying the Classics. Reverse all explanations for left hand tyers.