Bob Graham suggested that I explain the method I use for making a lapel pin from a salmon fly hook. I originally started making my own pins for two reasons; one because I am left handed and 1 had trouble finding pins with the pin on the correct side of the hook, and two, because I wanted to use a Bartleet style hook.

I make the pins by first collecting together the following materials and equipment: metal file, electric grinding wheel (optional, but handy), propane welding torch, salmon fly hooks, silver solder, flux, vise (the kind you use in the garage, not your fly tying vise!), vice grips, lapel pins (I get mine from Bourget Bros. Jeweler's Tool and Supplies, 1636 - 11th Street, Santa Monica, CA 90404, phone: (213) 450-6556. The pin stem made of nickel-silver is catalog number 73-954 and costs $2.00/gross and the silver color pin back (lapel clutch back) is catalog number 73-999 and is $4.40/dozen.)

I begin the welding procedure by first lightly filing the area of the hook where the pin will be attached. It is very difficult to weld the pin to the hook if the japanned finish is not removed first. I try to remove just enough japanning to provide an area for pin attachment just behind the middle of the hook. If the pin is attached too far back it will interfere with the butt of the fly.

The pins I buy come with a small head which I usually remove by holding the pin head against a rotating grinding wheel with a pair of vice grips. It i s not absolutely essential that the head be removed but it makes the finished fly smoother.

The hook and pin are now ready to be welded together. Place the hook (with a small protective piece of thick paper) in a vise (non fly tying type vice) the same way you would if you are tying materials on to it. Hold the pin in a pair of vice grips so that the pin head is visible. Turn on the propane torch and adjust the flame so that a blue cone forms in the inner portion of the flame. Obtain a piece of silver solder and place a small amount of flux on it and the area of the hook to be soldered. Pick up the propane torch in one hand and the solder in the other. Heat the hook until it just turns reddish (the tip of the blue cone of the flame is the hottest and therefore the best area to use for this) and then touch the solder to it while the flame is still on the hook. This must be done fairly quickly or you will get too much solder on the hook or melt the hook in half! After the solder is on the hook, put the solder down and pick up the vice grips with the pin back. Hold the pin back to the hook so that it is perpendicular to the hook shank. Weld the pin back in place.

After the hook has cooled it is usually necessary to file the excess solder from the area with a hand held metal file or Dremel tool.

- Judy Lehmberg