Everyone's great fear comes with the next step. If proper thread placement and smooth thread under controlled, even pressure are maintained and if the platform and underwing (if present) are as previously described, wing mounting should go very smoothly.

It is most important to have the thread as far to the left (for a righthand tier) as you intend for it ever to be. It is unwise to go backward over a mounted wing with thread. If you do, don't be surprised if it buckles the wing. Be sure the thread is counterspun so that it is flat. Flat thread will slide easier on the shoulder of the wing than will twisted thread, thus making the wing collapse to be smooth and even.

The wing mount is accomplished through a simple series of three soft loops and two firm additional wraps slightly forward of the initial three. The first wrap is begun by bringing approximately 21/2" of thread up and back at about a 15 degree angle. (The reason for the 21/2" is so that all three wraps can be done in a series of flowing motions. You don't want to have to play around with a bobbin during this step.) Bring it down the other side at the same angle and back to the exact point the thread came from. Now bring the thread under the shank and straight up 90' to the shank. The thread is placed and held between the fingers and the wing slips by first rolling back the thumb to pinch the thread going up, then rolling back down onto it, followed by the same process with the finger on the other side. It is wise to leave just a slight amount of loose thread arching over the wing, not touching it. All the while, the wing slips are held firmly in position. If anything slips, start over now. If satisfied with the wing and thread positions, begin to pull the thread straight up under even, constant pressure. Do not release pressure on the wing slips but do slightly roll the fingers back as the thread slides down and forward. Once it is firmly drawn, repeat this process. Then, repeat it a third time. These three wraps are almost exactly on top of one another, preferably very slightly progressing forward, never backward. After the third wrap is firmly drawn up, let the bobbin hang down the near side, thus removing one-half of a wrap. Still holding the wing with firm pressure, grasp with thumb and index of the other hand the butts of the wing and underwing, which will have now twisted away from you, and bring them back up and twist them back to the original position. Don't be afraid to apply what may seem undue pressure. In fact, it helps to work them back and forth a few times, as long as the wing proper is still firmly held. This may loosen the three wraps. If so, remove two and rewrap them without soft loops this time. (The wing has not been released to this point.) Now, somewhat less viciously draw back and up the wing butts again. Take two additional, secure wraps, separated from the initial three by the distance you wish the head to cover. If the butts slip around again, draw them back up; remove one or both of the most recent wraps and put them on again. (What removing and replacing wraps does is further crush the barbs to better secure them. It also makes for a cleaner and smaller head. Additional wraps on top of these do not add security, only bulk.)

You can now finally remove your hand holding the wing slips, and take a look. Everything should have fallen cleanly into place. If you are not satisfied, remove the five wraps and do it again. Possibly, the wing is too long or one side was not even with the other after all. Maybe one side buckled. Maybe the hump is too flat or the wing is too high at the tips. Don't be afraid to remount. A wing is easy to remount, fairly easy to shorten, but not easy to lengthen.

If the wing is too short or badly buckled, a way to start over was shown me by Greg Bevards You simply steam the wing slips! I have brought a pair back from failure as many as three times this way. Odds are, as was the case that time, the problem is the foundation, not the slips. If all else fails, you can marry new slips.

Once satisfied with position of both slips, again grasp firmly the wing. Now, remove the last two wraps. With very sharp scissors remove the wing and underwing butts exactly where these wraps were once laid. The more vertical the cut, the more ball-like the head; the more angled the cut, the more potential for a tear-drop or tapered head. I prefer the former. Some choose not to cut off the butts now but wait until almost everything is mounted (shoulders, cheeks, roof, etc.). I think that is risky, since there is just that much more to slip when trimming finally is done. Once trimmed, while still holding the wing slips, paint water or saliva but not head cement, onto the remaining stubs up to the point of the first three wraps. Be careful particularly if using water, since it is less viscous than saliva; do not let it wick up into the wing proper. What saliva or water does is slightly soften, but especially it collapses the barbules on the barbs. The problem with head cement is that it hardens the butts, thus not allowing any further collapse. Also, it may produce rough spots that can catch and fray flattened thread. Now take two flat, criss-crossing wraps over the face of the trimmed butts with one additional flat wrap just behind them. This forms the taper that will ultimately shape the head.

Finally, release the wing, view your handiwork and complete the fly.