Many tiers, having just finished the finest salmon fly the world has ever seen, wish to mount the fly for display. There are several methods of mounting available, ranging from extremely inexpensive to very expensive. I have had some experience with each of the methods mentioned and will try to provide a few guidelines.

The least expensive method of mounting a salmon fly involves the use of "glass" domes. These glass (usually plastic) domes are available at local craft shops. I purchase mine from a retailer known as Michaels. The domes come in two parts: the base is made of wood and is contoured to accept a matching dome. The combined price is usually less than $5.00. A 3 X 4 dome is suitable for mounting one fly.

A 1/8-inch hole is drilled into the top of the base, slightly off center. A section of 1/8-inch dowel, roughly 1 1/2 inches long (stained and painted to match the base), is inserted into the hole in the base. The point of the hook is then pressed into the dowel and a small drop of super glue is placed where the hook meets dowel. Use a wood glue for added security to keep the dowel in the base. This type of mounting allows viewing the fly from all angles. The dome can also be placed anywhere on a desk or table, thus not restricting the mounted flies to a wall. You may consider purchasing a larger dome for several flies. You could also purchase small flowers and wrap them around the dowel and cover the base inside the dome with lichen for a more artistic look, although the sparse look of the dowel rod draws the viewers attention directly to the fly.

A second method for mounting flies involves the use of a shadow box. I prefer those that do not have compartments and that have a glass front. The method is the next least expensive, with shadow boxes running around $10.00 to $15.00. Again, check local craft and hobby shops for these items. Mounting your flies in shadow boxes is slightly more involved than the domes. You will not have control over the size of the box, so it is wise to purchase the box first and then select the flies to be placed therein. If only three or four flies will fit inside, consider tying patterns that have one or two colors in common. This will help to lend a "collection" look to the box, rather than just a bunch of flies. For example, you may tie flies that all call for whole tippets as underwings. To mount the flies in the box, decide first what type of color background will best show off the flies. Felt often works well in colors of dark blue, grey, black, or white. Remove the bark of the shadow box and glue the felt down to the back. Use a common, household white glue. After applying the glue to the back, smear it so that only a fine coat covers the entire surface. If you leave the glue in blobs or streaks, it will soak and shrink the felt in those places and will be visible in the finished product.

Next, place your flies in the appropriate locations. Two mounting methods exist for the shadow box, both again involving the use of dowels. The dowels can be placed so that the hook point is stuck into them. This will leave the dowels visible in the finished product. The other method involves mounting the fly body to the end of the dowel. This method often covers the dowel. For either method, note the location of the dowels and soak it with a little head cement in order to firmly glue the surface of the felt to the backing. If you do not soak the felt before mounting the dowel, the weight of the fly against the loose weave of the felt will cause the dowel to droop. The objective here is to mat the felt underneath the dowel so this will not happen. Mount the dowel to the back of the shadow box using your favorite brand of super glue or head cement. If you have elected to leave the dowels visible, paint the dowel to match the background before mounting them. (NOTE: if you cover the dowel with the fly, you may also wish to paint the dowel, but do not paint the end upon which you will mount the fly.) For mounting the fly to the dowel, I use super glue.

The issue has been raised of ruining the fly by the use of glue. My opinion is that if you intend to mount the fly, you have no intention of doing anything else with it. If for some reason you decide to sell it, well . . . it comes with the case. On the majority of flies, the best mounting point will be on the far side of the fly at the fourth turn of tinsel. Mounting the fly on the tinsel seems to be the strongest method, and when located at the fourth turn, the dowel will generally be hidden from view. If necessary, prop up the bend of the hook until the glue has set. Make sure your fly remains level. Floss is the next best body material to attach to the dowel, while fur is almost impossible. If fur or dubbing must be used, handle them as you did the felt.

Always compare the depth of the shadow box to the height of the dowel before attaching your flies. Leave adequate room for the fly. A 3/8- to 1/2-inch dowel is more than sufficient to lift the fly off the back of the box.

The final method is by far the most expensive: custom mounting. This type of mounting can accommodate any number of flies. The price will vary depending on the number of flies to be mounted, but expect to spend a minimum of $60.00 for six flies.

Here is the basic construction. Go to your local framing shop and look at frames that have a depth of two or three inches. This framing material will be similar to the outside walls on a shadow box. It is referred to as molding by the trade. Most frame shops will have only two or three styles, but they can be quite beautiful, with carved patterns, maybe inlaid gold trim. Determine the size of the box to be made and have the framer cut the material. If you wish, the framer can also assemble the material.

Regarding the size of the box, lay out your flies and determine how much space you will require. Try different designs of layout and leave a lot of space between the flies. This method of mounting allows you to determine the number of flies to be mounted, and their arrangement. After deciding on your size, add three inches to each outside measurement to allow for the selection of one or more mattes. Consider carefully your selection of matte color. You may wish to have an oval, rather than rectangular, cut. Or you may decide upon several small ovals rather than one large one. You may also decide to try a triple matte, with the outside a blue-grey and the inside being orange or yellow, the inside mattes being chosen to highlight particular colors in the flies. The point being that all of these considerations require space, so make sure you take this into account as you determine the size of the frame.

The flies are mounted within a foamcore box. I often use the white of the foamcore as a backdrop in the box, and the mattes can be used to provide color. Mounting methods are the same as those used in shadow boxes. The dowel is glued directly to the foamcore and then the fly is attached to the dowel.In order to visualize the construction, think of clothes boxes such as Christmas packages are wrapped in. The bottom of the clothes box is the foamcore. The box is made by attaching the "walls" to the bottom. The bottom should be the same size as the inside dimensions of the frame. The height of the walls should be the same as the inside depth of the frame. The top of the clothes box is the frame, complete with glass and mattes. Just as the clothes box fits together, so too the frame slips over the foamcore box. The walls of the foamcore box keep the glass and mattes secure. The frame is then stapled to the foamcore box.

This type of mounting is distinguished and classy. It is similar to the boxes advertised in magazines, but allows tiers complete control over all aspects.

One last hint. If you are intent upon dressing several flies for mounting, find some small plastic boxes for shortterm storage of the finished flies. I tape a small piece of Styrofoam into the box and press the hook point into the Styrofoam. Storing flies in this manner keeps them free of dust and dirt, and prevents accidental brushing or crushing of the flies.