The most common bobbin available today is the one made up of a tube attached to two spring arms ending in beads or nubbins which engage the holes in the sides of the spools. The modified bobbin demonstrated here is a Matarelli long-nosed model, although any brand of similar configuration and quality is perfectly acceptable and will work just as well. One must be certain that the spring arms are - as with the Matarelli - polished perfectly smooth. Running a piece of floss over them will expose any imperfections. A jeweler may be able to correct this with his buffing equipment.

The change made is in the number of spools used; in place of one there are two. These are standard metal sewing machine bobbin spools (they come in both metal and plastic - I prefer metal). Thompson Monobond 3/0 and 6/0 and floss are loaded on them. The spools themselves are available in yard good stores and sewing centers. Monobond is available in fly shops. Unless you want to use the Thompson product, their spools must be emptied or you must purchase empty spools and fill them using a sewing machine or electric drill. The Thompson spool is excellent and may be available from them (D.H. Thompson, 11 North Union St., Elgin, Ill. 60123), they are the manufacturers of the world famous Model A vise and other fine tools. In some mail order catalogues these spools have been called midge spools although I have no idea why.

A. Put the two spools together (on either side of the washer if one is used).

B. Place the dowel rod insert in the spool/washer combination - it should not be tight in the spool holes.

C. Set the unit inside the bobbin ends. Bring the threads up around the bobbin arms and into the end of the tube. Pull through. The threads can be snugged under the bobbin ends when not in use.

Instructions For Making A Dubbing Loop Using The Modified Dual Bobbin:

1. Start the fly with one or both threads from the dual bobbin. Unless you use Thompson monobond, you'll have to fill the empty bobbin spools with thread of your choice. Two 6/0 threads equals about a 4 1/2/0 thread and two 8/0 threads equals about a 5 1/2 or 6/0 thread in strength and size.

2. When you reach the area of the fly requiring a dubbing loop bring in and secure the second thread unless you've been using both threads all along.

3. Untwist both lines; separate them and hold them apart with the index and middle finger of your left hand. Let the bobbin hang on its own weight in the palm of your left hand.

4. Wax (or don't wax) either or both of the lines.

5. Insert the dubbing material of your choice and do whatever you'd normally do preparatory to spinning the loop.

6. Squeeze the loop lines together with the thumb and forefinger of your right hand in front of the left hand fingers that are creating the loop. Collapse and withdraw your left hand fingers as you do so.

7. Twist the bobbin (and captured dubbing) counter-clockwise. Once the dubbing has started to twist you can let the bobbin hang and give it a counter-clockwise twist using the masking tape area for traction. This will speed up the process of forming the chenille.

8. When ready, wind the body. Notice you don't have to work around the tying thread.

9. If you come up short with your dubbing material pull out some more threads from the bobbin and repeat steps 3 through 8. If you end up with extra untwist the threads and remove the excess.

10. If you want to finish the fly with only one thread tie the loop'off with a turn or two. Cut one thread and don't let go of the end coming from the fly. Tie this down with the remaining line.

Two or more spools can be used in the bobbin. I have one bobbin with four. The separate spools will allow for tension being taken up independently and equally. They also accommodate one spool running out of thread before the other. The thread path from the spools prevents the twist from starting down by the spools causing the thread to jump off the spool. You can't over twist as the spools will give thread when the tension of the twist demands it, thus avoiding doubling and breakage.

For greater depth on all of this refer to the American Angler article in May/June of '93.