Real Indian Crow is expensive. The going rate seems to be about $4 to $6 dollars (or higher) per feather. As patterns such as the Popham and Indian Crow call for Indian Crow as a veiling, the investment is up to $48 just in body veiling alone. Too steep for my thin pocket. book. To keep from going to the poorhouse, I use a substitute in my tying. This substitute is made from the white feathers form the neck of the common Ringneck Pheasant, dyed to imitate the colors of' the real stuff. Although the shape and texture is not exactly the same, it's close enough.

Real Indian Crow seems to have a gentle 'hump' near the tips. This hump is missing in the Ringneck subs. I've tried crimping with eyelash curlers. You can put a double crimp in the feather, but they're angled too sharply for my taste (see Fig. 1). It's not the gentle 'hump' you see in the real thing. Another method is to moisten the feather, then gently curve the tips around a stout dubbing needle (or a small diameter metal rod, ed.) This puts a nice curve into the tips, but the hump is still missing (see Fig. 2). The "lay it on glass" technique didn't work very well for me. Sometimes I'm a little short on patience (and time). Watching the subs dry on glass sheet is like watching paint dry. Boring.

To start, take the clothes pin apart because you'll need to modify both jaws. After you've taken it apart, you need to round off the flat spot on one jaw (call it the upper) with a small flat file (see Fig. 3). Make sure thecurve is about the shape of a quarter circle, since this is what's going to help put the hump in the sub. Use your own judgement because the size of the hump depends on what size of fly you tie.

The two foam pads you'll need can be made from any type of foam, as long as it's soft and flexible. the foam I use came from my fly tying kit (the type for foam beetle bodies), or an old pair of neoprene waders you're about to discard. (Don't use your new ones. Holes in waders make for very wet wading!)

Glue the foam pad into the groove (see Fig. 5) Be sure to use a glue that's compatible with the foam. Some glues will cause the foam to disintegrate or become hard. I used a glue stick (the same type of glue stick for paper). Glue the second piece to the tip of the rounded (upper) section (see Fig. 5). After the glue dries, reassemble the pin.

Gently brush the feather with a mascara brush or an interdental tool (another article for later) to "fan" the fibers. Brushing will remove some of the dramatic curve in the feather. The finished product should have a hump that's very close to the real thing (see Fig. 6).

I know this is not the only method to put the hump into subs. let's hear from other members of the Salmon Flyer on the techniques they use to crimp their subs. It's always interesting to try new techniques and variations.

Now, moving on to other business. I've tied the classics for nearly two years. In fact, I gave up tying trout flies for nearly a year (shame on me) because I wanted to concentrate on the techniques used in tying the classics.

Several things come to mind. First, I found there are many tiers willing to share ideas, techniques and sources. Several made video tapes. I was lucky enough to visit with several very nice guys who shared techniques, ideas, materials and time to critique my work candidly. I won't name names, because they know who they are. I still owe lunch and a cup of coffee to one and it's the other's turn to buy dinner at the Chinese restaurant on the next visit.

All of this has helped my tying and increased my appreciation of the beauty and complexity of the classic Atlantic Salmon Fly. Thanks!!

Second, although I've only been a member for a little over two years, I've enjoyed every issue. I read that some members want bigger and brighter. The flyer is great as is. Bigger, flashier and more colorful is not necessarily better. the Flyer may lose some of its special personality in its articles (or contributors), become too expensive to subscribe to, or lost in financial ruin. Let's have the color (it's great), but in moderation to keep the costs down. Thanks to Mike Radencich for his great work and wish the best of luck to our new editors. Here's looking forward to great issues in 1995!